CABLED
YARN: A yarn formed by twisting together two or more plied yarns.
CABLE
STITCH: A knit effect produced by crossing a group of stitches over a
neighboring
stitch group.
CABLE
TWIST: A construction of thread, yarn, cord, or rope in which each successive
twist is in the direction opposite the preceding twists; i.e., and S/Z/S or
Z/S/Z construction.
CALENDERING:
A mechanical finishing process for fabrics to produce special
effects, such as
high luster,
glazing, moiré, and embossed effects. In this operation, the fabric is passed
between
heated rolls under
pressure.
CALENDERING
ROLLS: 1. The main cylinders on a calender. 2.
Smooth or fluted
rolls used on carious fiber-processing machines such as
pickers and cards
to compress the lap or sliver as it passes between them.
CAM:
A rotating or sliding piece or projection used to impart timed
or periodic motion to other
parts of a machine.
It is used chiefly as a controlling or timing element in machines rather than
as
part of a power
transmission mechanism. Cams are particularly important in both knitting and
weaving machinery.
CAMBRIC:
A soft, white, closely woven, cotton or cotton blend fabric that
has been calendered
on the right side
to give it a slight gloss. Cambric is used extensively for handkerchiefs.
CAN:
1. A cylindrical container, about 3 feet high and 10 to 12 inches
in diameter, that is used to
collect sliver
delivered by a card, drawing frame, etc.
CANDLE
FILTER: A small filter interposed between the spinning pump and spinning
jet to
effect final
filtration of the spinning solution prior to extrusion.
CANDLE
WATER TEMPERATURE: The temperature of the water surrounding
the candle
filter or within
the heating jacket during fiber extrusion.
CANDLEWICK
FABRIC: An unbleached muslin base fabric used to produce a chenille-like
fabric by applying
candlewick (heavy-plied yarn) loops and cutting the loops to give a fuzzy
effect.
CAPACITANCE:
The measure of the ability of a nonconductor to store electrical
energy by
means of the
potential difference across the surfaces of the nonconductor.
CAPROLACTAM:
A white, crystalline, cyclic amide (C6H11NO)
which yields å-amino-caproic
acid on hydrolysis
and is used as a raw material in the manufacture of nylon 6.
CAP
SPINNING: A system of spinning employing a
stationary, highly polished
metal cap just large enough to fit over the take-up bobbin, which revolves
at a high rate of speed. The cap controls thebuild and imparts
sufficient tension to the yarn for winding. The yarn is twisted and
wound onto packages simultaneously.
CARBON-ARC
LAMP: A type of fading lamp which utilizes an arc between two carbon
electrodes as the source of radiation.
CARBON
FIBER: A high-tensile fiber or whisker made by heating rayon or
polyacrylonitrile fibers or petroleum residues to appropriate temperatures.
Fibers may be 7 to 8 microns in diameter and are more
that 90% carbonized.
CARBONIZING:
A chemical process for eliminating cellulosic material from wool
or other
animal fibers. The
material is reacted with sulfuric acid or hydrogen chloride gas followed by
heating. When the
material is dry, the carbonized cellulose material is dust-like and can be
removed.
CARBOXYL
END GROUP: The chain-terminating (-COOH) group found
in polyamide and
polyester polymers.
CARBOXYMETHYL
CELLULOSE: An acid ether derivative of cellulose
formed by the
reaction of alkali
cellulose with chloroacetic acid. The sodium salt of this compound is
commonly used as a
stabilizer or an emulsifier.
CARD:
A machine used in the manufacture of staple yards. Its functions
are to separate, align,
and deliver the
fibers in a sliver form and to remove impurities. The machine consists of a
series
of rolls, the
surfaces of which are covered with many projecting wired or metal teeth. Short
staple systems
employ flat strips covered with card clothing rather that small rolls.
CARD
CLOTHING: The material used to cover the working
surfaces of the card, i.e., cylinder
and rolls or flats.
The clothing consists of either wire teeth set in a foundation fabric or
rubber, or
narrow serrated
metal flutes which are spirally arranged around the roll. The metallic wire has
the appearance of
band-saw blade.
CARDED
YARN: A cotton yarn that has been carded but not combed. Carded yarns
contain a
wider range of
fiber lengths and, as a result, are not as uniform or as strong as combed
yarns.
They are
considerably cheaper and are used in medium and course counts.
CARDIGAN:
1. A modification of the rib-knitting stitch to allow tucking on
one (half cardigan)
or both(full
cardigan) sets of needles. 2. A sweater that
buttons down the front.
CARDING:
A process in the manufacture of spun yarns whereby the staple is
opened, cleaned,
aligned, and formed
into a continuous, untwisted strand called a sliver.
CARE
LABEL: The label that gives directions for cleaning, ironing, and
otherwise maintaining
a fabric of fiber
product.
CARPET
BACKING: A primary backing through which the carpet
tufts are inserted is always
required for tufted
carpets. The backing is usually made of woven jute or nonwoven
manufactured fiber
fabrics. A secondary backing, again made of jute or manufactured fibers, is
normally added at
the latex backcoating stage. Carpet backings are an important end use for
nonwoven fabrics.
CARPETS:
Heavy functional and ornamental floor coverings consisting of
pile yarns or fibers
and a backing
system. They may be tufted or woven.
CARPET UNDERLAY: A
separate fabric which is used to provide cushioning for carpet.
Carpet underlays
are made of hair and jute, sponge rubber, bonded urethane or foamed urethane.
CARRIER:
1. A product added to a dyebath to promote the dyeing of
hydrophobic manufactured
fibers and
characterized by affinity for, and ability to swell, the fiber. 2.
A moving holder for a
package of yarn
used on a braiding machine. 3. A term sometimes
used to describe the tube or
bobbin on which
yarn is wound.
CARRIERLESS
DYEING VARIANTS: Polymers that have been modified to
increase their
dyeability. Fibers
and fabrics made from these polymers can be dyed at the boil without the use
of carriers.
CASHMERE: The extremely soft hair of the
Cashmere goat. Cashmere is often blended with
sheep’s wool in fabrics.
CATALYST: A chemical that accelerates a
reaction. The catalyst is not part of the reaction but
increases the rate at which it takes place.
CATIONIC DYEABLE VARIANTS: Polymers modified chemically to
make them receptive to
cationic dyes.
CAUSTIC SODA: The common name for sodium
hydroxide.
CALAVRY TWILL: A pronounced, raised cord on a
63-degree twill weave characterizes this
rugged cloth usually made from wool or wool blend
yarns.
CELLOPHANE: A generic term for regenerated
cellulose film, which is used primarily for
packaging. The film is transparent and may be dyed
in many colors or coated to render it
moisture proof or heat-sealable.
CELLULOSE: A carbohydrate which is the chief
component of the cell walls of plants.
Cellulose is found in wood and in cotton, linen,
jute, hemp, and all of the bast, leaf, and stem
fibers. It is a basic raw material in the
manufacture of rayon, acetate, and triacetate fibers.
CELLULOSIC FIBER: A fiber composed of, or derived
from, cellulose. Examples are cotton
(cellulose), rayon (regenerated cellulose), acetate
(cellulose acetate), and triacetate (cellulose
triacetate).
CERAMIC
FIBER: An aluminum silicate fiber made by heating aluminum fluoride at
1000-
1200°C
with silica and water vapor. The crystals, or “whiskers,” obtained are up to 1
cm long
and have high
strength. Ceramic fibers are used in reinforced plastics.
CHAFED
END: A warp end that has been abraded during processing. It generally
appears as a
dull yarn often
containing broken filaments.
CHAFER
FABRIC: A fabric, coated with unvulcanized rubber, that is wrapped
around the bead
section of the tire
before vulcanization of the complete tire. The purpose of the chafer fabric is
to
maintain an
abrasion-resistant later of rubber in contact with the wheel on which the tire
is
mounted.
CHAIN
BINDERS: Yarns running in the warp direction on the
back of a woven carpet which
hold construction
yarns together
CHALLIS:
A very soft, lightweight, plain-weave fabric, usually printed
with a delicate floral
pattern. The name
is derived from the Anglo-Indian term “shalee” meaning soft.
CHANGE
INLINGTH ON UNTWISTING: The increase or decrease in length measured
when
a specimen is
untwisted. The change is expressed as the percentage extension or contraction
of
the nominal gauge
length of the specimen, i.e., specimen length prior to untwisting.
CHAR
LENGTH: In flammability testing, the distance from the edge of the
sample exposed to
the flame to the upper
edge of the charred or void area.
CHEESE:
A cylindrical package of yarn wound on a flangeless tube.
CHEESECLOTH:
A low-count, plain weave, soft cotton or cotton blend cloth also
known as
gauze.
CHEMICAL
CRIMPING: A crinkled or puckered effect in fabric
obtained by printing sodium
hydroxide onto the
goods in a planned design. When the material is washed, the part to which the
paste has been
applied will shrink and cause untreated areas to pucker. The same effect is
obtained with a
caustic resist print and a sodium hydroxide bath
CHEMICAL
FINISHING: Processes in which additives are applied to
change the aesthetic and
functional
properties of a material. Examples are the application of antioxidants,
flameretardant,
wetting agents, and
stain and water repellents.
CHEMICAL
STABILITY: Degree of resistance of a material to
chemicals, such as acids, bases,
solvents, oils, and
oxidizing agents, and to chemical reactions, including those catalyzed by
light.
CHENILLE:
1. A yarn with a fuzzy pile protruding from all sides, cut from a
woven chenille
weft fabric.
Chenille yarns are made from all fibers, and they are used as filling in
fabrics and for
embroidery,
fringes, and tassels. 2. Fabric woven with
chenille yarn.
CHEVIOT:
A rugged tweed made from uneven yarn, this fabric usually has a
rather harsh hand.
CHEVRON:
A broad term applied to prints in zigzag stripes or to
herringbone weaves.
CHIFFON:
A plain weave, lightweight, sheer, transparent fabric made from
fine, highly twisted
yarns. It is
usually a square fabric, i.e., having approximately the same number of ends and
picks
and the same count
in both warp and filling.
CHINCHILLA
CLOTH: A heavy, twill weave, filling-pile fabric with a napped surface
that is
rolled into little
tufts or nubs. The material is frequently double faced with a knitted or woven,
plain or fancy
back. Chinchilla cloth is used primarily in coats. The term is also used to
refer to
a knitted woolen
fabric having a napped surface.
CHINO:
A cotton or cotton blend twill used by armies throughout the
world for summer-weight
uniforms. Chino is
frequently dyed khaki.
CHINTZ:
A glazed fabric produced by friction calendering. Unglazed
chintz is called cretonne.
CHIP:
1. The form of polymer feedstock used in fiber production. 2.
The
feedstock for a
pulp digestor. 3. A defect in a
nonwoven fabric.
CHLORINE
RETENTION: A characteristic of several resins and
textile finishes whereby they
retain some of the
chlorine from bleach. On heating of the goods, the chlorine forms
hydrochloric acid,
causing tendering of the cloth. This is especially true of certain wrinkle
resistant finishes
for cotton and rayon.
CHOKED
FLYERS: A situation in which roving will not pass through the flyer
channels
because of heavy or
cockled conditions caused by such factors as uneven drafting, waste, overcut
fibers, and
improper finish.
CHUTE-FEED
SYSTEM: Pneumatic fiber transport system used in linking textile
processing
equipment or
operations, especially opening, blending, and carding.
CIRCULAR-KNIT
FABRIC: A tubular weft-knit fabric made of a circular-knitting machine.
CIRÉ: A brilliant patent
leather effect produced by application of wax, heat, and pressure.
CLIPMARK:
Visible deformation of selvage due to pressure from a tenter
clip.
CLO:
A unit of thermal resistance. The insulation needed to keep an
individual producing heat
at the rate of
58W/m2 comfortable of 21°C
air temperature with air movement of 0.1 m/s. One
clo is roughly
equal to the insulation value of typical indoor clothing.
CLOQUÉ
FABRIC: From the French term for blistered, it refers to any fabric
whose surface
exhibits an
irregularly raises blister effect.
CLOTH:
A generic term embracing all textile fabrics and felts. Cloth
may be formed of any
textile fiber,
wire, or other material, and it includes any pliant fabric woven, knit, felted,
needled,
sewn, or otherwise
formed.
CLOUDY
WEB: An uneven or irregular web from the doffer of a card.
CLUMPS:
In nonwoven fabrics, an irregularly shaped grouping of fibers
caused by insufficient
fiber separation
COACERVATION:
The collection of colloidal particles into droplets held
together by
electrostatic
attraction. This term for the equilibrium state of colloidal systems was
introduced in
1929.
COAGULATION:
The precipitation of particles from a suspension in a liquid,
usually resulting
in formation of a
gel.
COAGULATION
BATH: A liquid bath that serves to harden viscous polymer strands into
solid
fibers after
extrusion through a spinneret. Used in wet spinning processes such as in rayon
or
acrylic fiber
manufacture.
COALESCED
FILAMENTS: Filaments stuck together by design or
accident during the
extrusion process.
COALESCENCE:
Merging of two or more substances into a larger substance, i.e.,
coalesced
filaments.
COATING:
The application of a semi-liquid material such as rubber,
polyvinyl chloride, or
polyurethane to one
or both sides of a textile material. Once the coating has been dried (and
cured, if
necessary), it forms a bond with the fabric.
COCKLED
YARN: Spun yarn in which some fibers do not lie parallel to the other
fibers but
instead are curled
and kinked, forming a rough and uneven surface on the yarn. The general
cause is fiber
overcut to the extent that the drafting rolls catch and hold both ends of the
fiber at
the same time while
attempting to draft, resulting in slippage or breakage.
COCKLING:
A crimpiness or pucker in yarn or fabric usually caused by lack
of uniform quality
in the raw material
used, improper tension on yarn in weaving, or weaving together yarns of
different numbers.
COHESION:
The force that holds fibers together during yarn manufacturing
or processing. It is
usually a function
of lubricant (type and amount) and fiber crimp.
COILING:
The depositing of sliver into cylindrical cans in helical loops.
This arrangement
permits easy
removal for further processing.
COLOR
ABRASION: Color changes in localized areas of a
garment resulting from differential
wear.
COLORIMETER:
1. A device that specifies color by measuring the intensities of
the three
primary colors that
compose the color under study. 2. An instrument for
measuring the
concentration of a
known substance in solution by comparing the liquid’s color with standard
colors.
COLORIMETRY:
Any technique for evaluating a given color in terms of standard
colors.
COLOR
STRIPPER: A chemical used to remove some or all of
the dyestuffs from a fiber, yarn,
or fabric so that a
dyeing defect can be corrected, a shade lightened, or another color applied.
COLOUR
INDEX (CI): A listing of dyes and chemical structures
published by the Society of
Dyers and
Colourists. Each structure is assigned a name according to chemical
composition.
Each dye is
assigned a number according to its class and shade. A correlating structure
number is
given when
available.
COMBED
SLIVER: A continuous band of untwisted fiber, relatively free of short
fibers and
trash, produced by
combing card sliver.
COMBED
YARN: A yarn produced from combed sliver.
COMBINATION FABRIC: A
fabric containing: (1) different fibers in the warp and filling (e.g.,
a cotton warp and a
rayon filling), (2) ends of two or more fibers in the warp and/or filling, (3)
combination yarns,
(4) both filament yarn and spun yarn of the same or different fibers, or (5)
filament yarns of
two or more generic fiber types. Combination fabrics may be either knit or
woven. They should
not be confused with blend fabrics. Although blend fabrics also contain
more that one
fiber, the same intimately blended spun yarn is present in both warp and
filling.
COMBINATION
YARN: A piled yarn containing two or more yarns that vary in fiber
composition,
content, and/or twist level; or plied yarn composed of both filament yarn and
spun
yarn.
COMBING:
A step subsequent to carding in cotton and worsted system
processing which
straightens the
fibers and extracts neps, foreign matter, and short fibers. Combing produces a
stronger, more
even, more compact, finer, smoother yarn.
COMFORT:
Performance parameter of apparel referring to wearability.
Encompasses such
properties as
wicking, stretch, hand, etc.
COMMERCIAL
ALLOWANCE: The commercial moisture regain plus a
specific allowance
for finish used in
calculating the commercial or legal weight of a fiber shipment.
COMMERCIAL
MOISTURE REGAIN: An arbitrary value adopted as the moisture
regain to
be used in
calculating the commercial or legal weight of a fiber shipment.
COMMERCIAL
WEIGHT: 1. In natural fibers, the dry weight of fibers
or yarns plus the
commercial moisture
regain. 2. In manufactured
fibers, the dry weight of staple spun yarns or
filament yarns
after scouring by prescribed methods, plush the commercial moisture regain.
COMMINGLED
YARN: In aerospace textiles, two or more continuous multifilament
yarns, the filaments of which have been intermixed with each other without
adding twist or otherwise disturbing parallel relationship of the
combined filaments. Usually consists of a reinforcing yarn, such as
graphite or glass, and a thermoplastic matrix yarn.
COMPACTED
YARNS: Air-jet interlaced yarns. Since the
entanglement serves
only as a substitute for twist, the degree of interlace
or tangle is not as
great as in air-jet bulked yarns
COMPACTOR: A machine developed
by Fabric Research Laboratories which is used to
compact fabrics or
to produce warp-stretch fabrics by means of forced crimp and/or shrinkage of
the warp yarn.
COMPACT
SPINNING PROCESS: A term generally referring to a spinning
process carried
out using any one
of the several small spinning machines of compact design offered by
equipment vendors
as “packaged” units in which spinning and subsequent processing (drawing,
crimping, cutting,
etc.) are linked.
COMPATIBLE
SHRINKAGE: A term used for bonded fabrics to indicate
that the face fabric
and lining have
similar shrinkage. This is necessary to avoid puckering.
COMPLIANCE:
The ability of a fiber to yield under stress; the ratio of the
change in strain to
the change in
stress that produces it; the reciprocal of the textile modulus.
shear-yield
strength of the matrix unless fibers are bonded in a load-transferring matrix. 3.
A
structure made by
laminating a nonwoven fabric with another nonwoven, with other materials, or
by impregnating a
nonwoven fabric with resins.
COMPOSITE
FIBERS: Fibers composed of two or more polymer types in a sheath-core or
side-by-side
(bilateral) relation.
COMPRESSIBILITY:
Refers to the ease of reducing the bulk of fabric, carpet,
batting, or other
material. May be
high or low, soft or hard.
CONDENSATION
POLYMERIZATION: A polymerization process yielding a product
in
which the repeating
unit has fewer atoms that the monomer or monomers. Generally, the
separation of water
or some other simple substance occurs as a result of the reaction, e.g.,
ethylene glycol in
polyester production.
CONDITIONING:
A process of allowing textile materials (staple, tow, yarns, and
fabrics) to
reach hygroscopic
equilibrium with the surrounding atmosphere. Materials may be conditioned
in a standard
atmosphere (65%RH,70°F) for testing purposes or in arbitrary conditions existing in
manufacturing or
processing areas.
CONE:
A conical package of yarn, usually wound on a disposable paper
core.
CONING:
The transfer of yarn from skeins or bobbins or other types of
packages to cones.
CONJUGATE
FIBER: A two-component fiber with specific ability to crimp on hot or
hot/wet
treatment because
of differential shrinkage.
CONJUGATE YARN: A
yarn made from conjugate filaments.
CONSOLIDATION:
Application of heat and pressure to form composite structures.
CONTACT
ANGLE: The angle between the surface of a liquid and the surface of a
partially
submerged object or
the container at the line of contact. The smaller the contact angle, the
greater the
wettability of the solid.
COP:
1. A headless tube upon which yarn or thread is wound. 2.
Thread or yarn wound into the
shape of a hollow
cylinder with tapered ends. 3. Filling yarn
wound upon a tapered tube
(generally paper).
COPOLYMER:
A polymer composed of a combination of more that one monomer
(usually
two). Copolymers
are the basis of some manufactured fibers.
CORD:
1. The product formed by twisting together two or more plied yarns.
2. A rib on the
surface of a fabric
(e.g., corduroy and whipcord)
CORDUROY:
A filling-pile fabric with ridges of pile (cords)
running lengthwise
parallel to the selvage.
CORE SPINNING: The
process of making a corespun yarn. It consists of
feeding the core yarn (an elastomeric filament yarn, a regular
filament yarn, a textured yarn, or a previously spun yarn) into the
front delivery roll of the spinning frame and of covering the
core yarn with a sheath of fibers during the
spinning operation.
CORE-SPUN
YARN: A yarn made by twisting fibers around a
filament or a
previously spun yarn, thus concealing the core.
Core yarns are used
in sewing thread, blankets, and socks and also to obtain novelty effects in
fabrics.
CORKSCREW
TWIST: A place in yarn or cord where uneven twist gives a
corkscrew-like
appearance.
CORRUGATION
MARK: A fabric defect consisting of a crimped, rippled, wavy, pebbled,
or
cockled area in the
fabric spoiling the uniformity of the texture.
COT:
The covering material used on various fiber-processing rolls,
especially drawing rolls.
Leather, cork,
rubber, and synthetic materials are frequently employed.
COTTAGE
STEAMER: A chamber used for batch steaming of
printed or dyed textiles. Cloth
is looped on
“poles” on a special cart which fits into the steamer for processing.
COTTON
COUNT: The yarn numbering system based on length and weight originally
used for
cotton yarns and
now employed for most staple yarns spun on the cotton, or short-staple, system.
It is based on a
unit length of 840 yards, and the count of the yarn is equal to the number of
840-
yard skeins
required to weigh 1 pound. Under this system, the higher the number, the finer
the
yarn.
COTTON
FIBER: A unicellular, natural fiber composed of almost pure cellulose.
As taken
from plants, the
fiber is found in lengths of 3/8 to 2 inches. For marketing, the fibers are
graded
and classed for
length, strength, and color.
COUNT:
1. A numerical designation of yarn size indicating the relationship
of length to weight.
2.
The number of warp yarns (ends) and filling yarns (picks) per
inch in a woven
fabric, or the number of wales and courses per inch in a knit fabric. For
example,
a fabric count of
68 x 52 indicates 68 ends per inch in the warp and 52 picks per inch in the
filling.
COURSE:
The row of loops or stitches running across a knit fabric,
corresponding to the filling
in woven fabrics.
COVER:
1. The degree of evenness of thread spacing. 2.
The degree to which underlying
structure is
concealed by the surface material, as in carpets, the degree to which pile
covers
backing. 3.
The ability of a dye to conceal defects in fabric.
COVER
FACTOR: The fraction of the surface area that is covered by yarns
assuming round
yarn shape.
COVERSTOCK:
A lightweight nonwoven material used to contain and conceal an
underlying
core material.
Examples are the facing materials that cover the absorbent cores of diapers,
sanitary napkins,
and adult incontinence products.
COVERT:
A mediumweight to heavyweight wool or wool blend cloth woven
with a steep twill
from two or more
shades of yarn-dyed fibers to produce a mottled or melange effect.
COWOVEN
FABRIC: In aerospace textiles, a fabric in which a reinforcing fiber
and a matrix fiber are adjacent to each other as one end in the warp and/or
filling direction.
CRAB:
A hand device used to stretch carpets in a small area.
CRABBING:
The process of heating wool or hair fabrics, under tension,
in a hot or boiling
liquid, then cooling under tension, to provide the fabric
with dimensional
stability for further wet processing.
CRACK:
A defect in a woven fabric consisting of an open fillingwise
streak extending partly or
entirely across the
fabric.
CRACK
MARK: A sharp break or crease in the surface of a coated or laminated
fabric.
CRASH:
A course fabric with a rough, irregular surface made from thick,
uneven yarns.
CREASE:
A break or line in a fabric generally caused by a sharp fold.
Creases may be either
desirable or
undesirable, depending upon the situation. A crease may be intentionally pressed
into a fabric by
application of pressure and heat and sometimes moisture.
CREASE-RESISTANT:
A term used to describe a fabric treated chemically to improve
its
resistance to and
recovery from wrinkling.
CREASE
RETENTION: The ability of a fabric to maintain an
inserted crease. Crease retention
can be measured
subjectively or by the relation of a crease in a subsequent state to the crease
in
the initial state.
Crease retention may be strongly dependent on the conditions of use, e.g.,
normal wear,
washing or tumble-drying.
CREEL:
1. A framework arranged to hold slivers, rovings, or yarns so that
many ends can be
withdrawn smoothly
and evenly without tangling. 2. A similar device
used to aggregate sub-tows
to tows in manufactured
staple processing, especially polyester.
CREELING:
The mounting of supply packages in a creel to feed fiber to a
process, i.e., beaming
or warping.
CREPE:
A lightweight fabric characterized by a crinkling surface
obtained by the use of: (1)
hard-twist filling
yarns, (2) chemical treatment, (3) crepe weaves
CRIMP:
1. The waviness of a fiber expressed as crimps per unit length. 2.
The difference in
distance between
two points on an unstretched fiber and the same two points when the fiber is
straightened under
specified tension. Crimp is expressed as a percentage of the unstretched
length. 3.
The difference in distance between two points on a yarn as it lies in a fabric
and the
same two points
when the yarn has been removed from the fabric and straightened under
specified tension,
expressed as a percentage of the distance between the two points as the yarn
lies in the fabric.
CRIMP
AMPLITUDE: The height of displacement of the fiber
from its uncrimped
condition.
CRIMP
DEREGISTERING: The process of opening a tow band by causing the peaks
and valleys of the crimp to lay randomly rather that uniformly.
CRIMP ENERGY: The
amount of work required to uncrimp a fiber.
CRIMP
FREQUENCY: The crimp level, or number of crimps per
inch in yarn or tow.
CRIMPING:
The process of imparting crimp to tow or filament yarn.
CRIMP
SETTING: An aftertreatment to set the crimp in yarn
or fiber. Usually heat and steam
are used, although
the treatment may be chemical in nature.
CRINKLE:
1. A wrinkled or puckered effect in fabric. It may be obtained
either in the construction or in
the finishing of the fabric. 2. The term is
sometimes incorrectly used to describe the crimp
of staple fiber.
CROCHETING:
The interlocking of loops from a single thread with a hooked
needle.
Crocheting can be
done either by hand or by machine.
CROCKING:
The rubbing-off of dye from a fabric as a result of insufficient
dye penetration or fixation, the use
of improper dyes or dyeing methods, or insufficient washing and treatment after the dyeing
operation. Crocking can occur under dry or wet conditions.
CROSS DIRECTION: The
width dimension, within the plane of the fabric, that is perpendicular
to the direction in
which the fabric is being produced by the machine.
CROSS-FLOW QUENCH: In
cooling extruded polymer filaments, refers to cooling air
directed from one side cross the path of the filaments. There may be some type of
suction on the opposite side to remove the heated air.
CROSS-LINKING:
The stabilization of cellulosic or manufactured fibers through chemical
reaction with certain compounds in such a way that the cellulose or
manufactured polymer chains are bridged across or “crosslinked.” Cross-linking
improves such mechanical factors as wrinkle resistance. Random
cross-linking in manufactured polymers is undesirable and leads to brittleness and
loss of tensile strength.
CROWSFEET:
A fabric defect consisting of breaks or wrinkles of varying
degrees of intensity
and size,
resembling bird’s footprints in shape, and occurring during wet processing of
fabrics.
CRYSTALLINE:
Made up of crystals. The term crystalline applies to sections of
all chemical
fibers, which
consists of alternate crystalline and amorphous (noncrystalline) regions. These
regions are
influenced by manufacturing conditions and to some extent can be controlled.
The
degree of
crystallinity influences the physical properties of fibers.
CRYSTALLINE
GROWTH: 1. The expansion and development of a crystal.
The process
involves diffusion
of the crystallizing material to special sites on the surface of the crystal,
incorporation of
the molecules into the surface at these sites, and diffusion of heat away from
the
surface of the
crystal. 2. The
transformation of disoriented molecules, usually of the same
substance, to a
higher state of order. This process generally occurs rapidly for small
molecules;
however, the
process is slow for polymer molecules and is arrested at temperatures below the
glass transition
temperature.
CRYSTALLINITY:
1. The state of quality of being crystalline. 2.
The extent to which a
polymer exists in a
lattice structure.
CRYSTALLIZATION:
The formation of highly-ordered substances (crystals) from
solutions or
melts. In polymers,
crystalline areas are interspersed with amorphous areas in a lattice-like
network.
CUPIONI:
A type of specialty or novelty yarn having slubs or enlarged
sections of varying
length.
CUPRAMMONIUM
RAYON: Filaments produced by precipitating cellulose dissolved in a
solution of copper
oxide in ammonia
CURING: 1. In finishing
fabrics, the process by which resins or plastics are set in or on textile
materials, usually
by heating. 2. In rubber
processing, vulcanization. It is accomplished either by
heat treatment or
by treatment in cold sulfuryl chloride solution.
CUSHION-BACK CARPET: A
carpet with padding made as an integral part of the backing.
CUT:
1. A unit of yarn number. The number of 100-yard lengths per pound
avoirdupois of
asbestos yarn or
glass yarn, or the number of 300-yards lengths per pound avoirdupois of woolen
yarn. 2.
A length of woven cloth. 3. The number of
needles per inch on a circular-knitting
machine. A machine
with 34 needles per inch is a 34-cut machine, and a fabric produced thereon
is called a 34-cut
fabric.
CUT
PILE: A pile surface obtained by cutting the loops of yarn in a tufted or woven
carpet.
CUT
SELVAGE: A cut or break occurring only in the
selvage. A cut selvage is caused
by incorrect loom adjustment during weaving or improper edge
construction. The term also refers to loose edges cut during shearing of
the fabric.
CUT
STAPLE: 1. An inferior cotton fiber that was
accidentally cut because it was too
damp during ginning. 2. A term sometimes
used to denote staple of
manufactured fibers.
CUT
YARN: A defective yarn, i.e., cut partially or completely through,
resulting from malprocessing.
CYCLIC
TRIMER: Strictly, a polymer, in cyclic form, that contains three
repeating groups.
Cyclic trimer is a
by-product found in all commercial polyester and results in deposit buildup in
package-dyeing
equipment.