Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Textile Dictonary





TABLET TEST- . FLAMMABILITY TESTS, Methanamine Pill Test.

TACKINESS- The property of being sticky or adhesive.

TACTIC POLYMER- A polymer whose molecular structure exhibits regularity or symmetry of
non-backbone side groups rather than random ordering. (Also . ATACTIC POLYMER,
ISOTACTIC POLYMER, and SYNDIOTACTIC POLYMER.)

TAFFETA- A plain-weave fabric with a fine, smooth, crisp hand and usually a lustrous
appearance. Taffeta fabric usually has a fine cross rib made by using a heavier filling yarn than
warp yarn. Taffetas are produced in solid colors, yarn-dyed plaids and stripes, and prints.
Changeable and moiré effects are often employed. Although originally made of silk,
manufactured fibers are now often used in the production of taffeta.

TAK DYEING- . KUSTERS DYEING RANGE.

TAKE-UP (TWIST)- The change in length of a filament, yarn, or cord caused by twisting,
expressed as a percentage of the original (untwisted) length.

TAKE-UP (YARN-IN-FABRIC)- The difference in distance between two points in a yarn as it
lies in a fabric and the same two points after the yarn has been removed from the fabric and
straightened under specified tension, expressed as a percentage of the straightened length. In this
sense, take-up is contrasted to the crimp of a yarn in a fabric, which is expressed as a percentage
of the distance between the two points in the yarn as it lies in the fabric. Take-up is generally
used in connection with greige fabric.

TANGENT MODULUS- The ratio of change in stress to change in strain derived from the
tangent to any point on a stress-stain curve.

TANGLELACED FABRIC- . SPUNLACED FABRIC.

TAPE- 1. A narrow, woven fabric not over 8 inches in width. 2. In slide fasteners, a strip of
material, along one edge of which the bead and scoops are attached, the bead sometimes being
integral with the strip. (Also . SLIT TAPE and NONELASTIC WOVEN TAPE.)

TAPE YARN- . SLIT-FILM YARN.

TARE- The weight of all external and internal packing material (including bobbins, tubes, etc.)
of a case, bale, or other type of container.

TARPAULIN- Water-resistant fabric used to protect loads or materials from the elements. May
be a coated fabric, a fabric with waterproof finish, or a fabric that is tightly constructed to prevent
water penetration.

TASLIN® PROCESS- . TEXTURING, Air Jet Method.
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TEAR STRENGTH- The force required to begin or to continue a tear in a fabric under specified
conditions.

TEASEL BURR- . NAPPING.

TEMPERATURE OF ZERO BIREFRINGENCE- The temperature at which the refractive
indexes of a material are equal in two perpendicular directions (longitudinally and transversely
for a fiber).

TENACITY- The tensile stress when expressed as force per unit linear density of the unstrained
specimen (e.g., grams-force per denier or newtons per tex). (Also . BREAKING TENACITY.)

TENCEL®- Registered trademark of Tencel, Inc. for their brand of cellulosic staple fiber
classified as lyocell. . LYOCELL FIBER.

TENSILE FACTOR- The empirical factor T x E1/2 that describes the tenacity elongation
exchange relationship for a large number of manufactured fiber systems.

TENSILE HYSTERESIS CURVE- A complex load-elongation, or stress-strain curve obtained-
(1) when a specimen is successively subjected to the application of a load or stress less than that
causing rupture and to the removal of the load or stress according to a predetermined procedure;
or (2) when a specimen is stretched less than the breaking elongation and allowed to relax by
removal of the strain according to a predetermined procedure.

TENSILE RECOVERY CURVE- . TENSILE HYSTERESIS CURVE.

TENSILE STRAIN- The relative length deformation exhibited by a specimen subjected to a
tensile force. Strain may be expressed as a fraction of the nominal gauge length or as a
percentage. (Also . ELONGATION.)

TENSILE STRENGTH- 1. In general, the strength shown by a specimen subjected to tension as
distinct from torsion, compression, or shear. 2. Specifically, the maximum tensile stress
expressed in force per unit cross-sectional area of the unstrained specimen, e.g., kilograms per
square millimeter, pounds per square inch. (For maximum stress per unit linear density, .
BREAKING TENACITY or BREAKING LENGTH.)

TENSILE STRESS- The resistance to deformation developed within a specimen subjected to
tension by external force. The tensile stress is commonly expressed in two ways, either as (1) the
tensile strength, i.e., the force per unit cross-sectional area of the unstrained specimen, or as (2)
tenacity, i.e., the force per unit linear density of the unstrained specimen. The latter is more
frequently used in textile testing.

TENSILE TEST- A method of measuring the resistance of a yarn or fabric to a force tending to
stretch the specimen in one direction.

TENTER FRAME- A machine that dries fabric to a specified width under tension. The machine
consists essentially of a pair of endless chains on horizontal tracks. The fabric is held firmly at
the edges by pins or clips on the two chains that diverge as they advance through the heated
chamber, adjusting the fabric to the desired width.

TENTER MARK- . CLIP MARK.
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TEREPHTHALIC ACID- Para-phthalic acid, [C6H4(COOH)2]. Used to produce polyester
resins, fibers, and films by combination with glycols.

TERPOLYMER- A product of the polymerization of three different monomers.

TERRY CLOTH- A cotton or cotton-blend fabric having uncut loops on one or both sides.
Made on a dobby loom with a terry arrangement or on a Jacquard loom. It is used for toweling,
beach robes, etc.

TERTIARY COLORS- Shades that are obtained by mixing the three primary colors or by
mixing one or more of the secondary colors with gray or black.

TETRACHLORIDE- A chloride, such as carbon tetrachloride, containing four atoms of
chlorine.

TETRAFLUOROETHYLENE FIBER- . POLYTETRAFLUOROETHYLENE FIBER.

TEX- 1. A unit for expressing linear density, equal to the weight in grams of 1 kilometer of yarn,
filament, fiber, or other textile strand. 2. The system of yarn numbering based on the use of tex
units. (Also . YARN NUMBER.)

TEXTILE- Originally, a woven fabric; now applied generally to any one of the following- 1.
Staple fibers and filaments suitable for conversion to or use as yarns, or for the preparation of
woven, knit, or nonwoven fabrics. 2. Yarns made from natural or manufactured fibers. 3. Fabrics
and other manufactured products made from fibers as defined above and from yarns. 4. Garments
and other articles fabricated from fibers, yarns, or fabrics when the products retain the
characteristic flexibility and drape of the original fabrics.

TEXTILE MATERIALS- A general term for fibers, yarn intermediates, yarn, fabrics, and
products made from fabrics that retain more or less completely the strength, flexibility, and other
typical properties of the original fiber or filaments.

TEXTILE PROCESSING- Any mechanical operation used to translate a textile fiber or yarn to
a fabric or other textile material. This includes such operations as opening, carding, spinning,
plying, twisting, texturing, coning, quilling, beaming, slashing, weaving, and knitting.

TEXTURE- A term describing the surface effect of a fabric, such as dull, lustrous, wooly, stiff,
soft, fine, coarse, open, or closely woven; the structural quality of a fabric.

TEXTURED- An adjective used to describe continuous filament manufactured yarns (and woven
and knit fabrics made therefrom) that have been crimped or have had random loops imparted, or
that have been otherwise modified to create a different surface texture. (Also . TEXTURED
YARNS and TEXTURING.)

TEXTURED YARNS- Yarns that develop stretch and bulk on subsequent processing. When
woven or knitted into fabric, the cover, hand, and other aesthetics of the finished fabric better
resemble the properties of a fabric constructed from spun yarn. (Also . TEXTURING.)

TEXTURING- The process of crimping, imparting random loops, or otherwise modifying
continuous filament yarn to increase cover, resilience, abrasion resistance, warmth, insulation,
and moisture absorption or to provide a different surface texture. Texturing methods can be
placed roughly into six groups. (Also . TEXTURED YARNS.)

THERMAL CHARACTER- A tactile property of a textile material. It is the difference felt in
the temperature of the material and the skin of the person touching it.

THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY- A measure of heat flow through a material.

THERMALLY STABILIZED- . HEAT STABILIZED.

THERMOBONDING- A technique for bonding fibers of a web with meltable powders or fibers,
using infrared heating, hot air, or hot-calendering. (Also . BONDING, Bonding with Binder
Fibers and POWDER-BONDED NON-WOVEN.)

THERMOGRAVIMETRIC ANALYSIS- Analytical technique in which the rate of change in
weight of a material undergoing continuous heating versus temperature is plotted. Used in
analysis of polymers to provide information on such parameters as degree of crystallinity, glass
transition temperature, thermal stability, etc.

THERMO-MAN- . FLAMMABILITY TEST, Thermo-Man.

THERMOPLASTIC- A term used to describe a plastic material that is permanently fusible. The
term as applied to manufactured fibers describes their tendency to soften at higher temperatures.

THERMOSET- A term used to describe a plastic that, once formed, does not melt when heated.


THERMOSOL PROCESS- . DYEING, Thermal Fixation.

THERMOTROPIC POLYMER- Polymer that exhibits liquid crystal formation in melt form.
In thermotropic polymers there must be a balance between having the necessary degree of
molecular perfection to preserve the liquid crystal formation and the amount of imperfection to
permit melting at workable temperatures. These polymers give high-modulus, highly oriented,
extrusion products.

THREAD- 1. A slender, strong strand or cord, especially one designed for sewing or other
needlework. Most threads are made by plying and twisting yarns. A wide variety of thread types
are in use today, e.g., spun cotton and spun polyester, core-spun cotton with a polyester filament
core, polyester or nylon filaments (often bonded), and monofilament threads. 2. A general term
for yarns used in weaving and knitting, as in “thread count” and “warp thread”.

THREAD COUNT- 1. The number of ends and picks per inch in a woven cloth. 2. The number
of wales and courses per inch in a knit fabric.
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THREADED-ROLL PROCESS- A high-speed method developed by Celanese for converting
crimped continuous filament tow into highly bulked, uniformly spread webs of up to 108-inch
widths. The webs are useful in a variety of products, such as cigarette filters, sleeping pillows,
and battings.

THREADUP- The process of directing or threading fiber or fabric through all machine positions
to start or restart a process, or the configuration resulting therefrom.

THREE-BAR FABRIC- A tricot fabric made on a machine equipped with three guide bars.

THREE-DIMENSIONAL WEAVING- To produce three-dimensional textiles, yarns are
simultaneously woven in three directions (length, width, and thickness) rather than in the
conventional two. The types of structures that can be produced fall into four broad classes- (1)
contoured fabrics, (2) expandable fabrics, (3) interwoven fabrics (Also . DOUBLE WEAVE),
and (4) contoured interwoven fabrics.

THROUGHPUT- The amount of raw material processed in a specific time. This is the actual
amount, not a percentage.

THROWING- The operation of doubling or twisting silk or manufactured filament yarns.

THROWSTER- A company that specializes in putting additional twist in yarn. More recently,
the term also applies to a company that specializes in texturing yarns.

THRUM- The fringe of warp yarns that remains on the loom when the woven fabric has been cut
free.

TICKING- A durable, closely woven fabric used for covering box springs, mattresses, and
pillows. Ticking may be woven in a plain, satin, or twill weave, usually with strong warp yarns
and soft filling yarns.

TIE-BACK- . STICKER, 1.

TIGHT or LOOSE END- A taut or slack warp end caused by too much or too little tension on
an individual end while weaving, by ridgy section or warp beams, by incorrect tensions in
beaming or sizing, or as a result of faulty fabric design.

TIME-TO-BREAK- In tensile testing, the time interval during which a specimen is under
prescribed conditions of tension and is absorbing the energy required to reach maximum load.

TINT- Coloration that produces a very pale shade. A tint usually represents the minimum
amount of color that will give perceptible appearance of coloration. In yarn processing, fugitive
tints are used for identification, then removed in wet processing.
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TIP-SHEARED CARPET- A textured pile carpet similar to a random-sheared carpet, but with a
less defined surface effect.

TIRE-BUILDER FABRIC- Fabric consisting of tire cord in the warp with single yarn filling at
extended intervals.

TIRE CONSTRUCTION- The geometry of the various layers of tire fabric in the final tire.
Three constructions are commonly used.

TIRE CORD- A textile material used to impart the flex resistance necessary for tire
reinforcement. Tire yarns of polyester, rayon, nylon, aramid, glass, or steel are twisted to 5 to 12
turns per inch. Two or more of these twisted yarns are twisted together in the opposite direction
to obtain a cabled tire cord. The twist level required depends on the material, the yarn linear
density, and the particular application of the cord. Normally, tire cords are twisted to about the
same degree in the S and Z directions, which means that the net effect is almost zero twist in the
finished cord. (Also . TIRE FABRIC.)

TIRE FABRIC- A loose fabric woven to facilitate large-scale dipping, treating, and calendering
of tire cords. Usually, 15 to 35 tire cords per inch of warp are woven into a tire fabric by 2 to 5
light filling yarns per inch. In these fabrics, the strength is in the warp and the filling only holds
cords in position for processing. The filling yarns are normally broken during tire molding. The
warp cords are polyester, rayon, nylon, aramid, glass, or steel and range in strength from 30
pounds to over 100 pounds per cord. A 60-inch fabric would normally have a warp strength of
about 7,000 pounds. Such fabrics are used for tire carcasses and tire belts. More conventional
square woven fabrics are used in certain parts of a tire such as the bead, chafer, and wrapping.
(Also . TIRE CORD.)
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TITANIUM DIOXIDE- A compound (TiO2) that occurs naturally in three different forms
(rutile, anatase, and brookite). It is used chiefly as a pigment or delusterant in paint or fiber.

TOBACCO CLOTH- A thin, lightweight, open cloth used to shade and protect tobacco plants.

TOE CLOSING- In knitting hosiery, this term refers to closing the toe opening. It may be knit
closed, or in tube hosiery, sewn closed.

TOILE- 1. A broad term describing many simple plain weave twill fabrics, especially those made
from linen. 2. Sheer cotton and linen fabrics.

TONGUE TEAR STRENGTH- The average force required to tear a rectangular sample with a
cut in the edge at the center of the shorter side. The two tongues are gripped in a tensile tester
and the force required to continue and tear is measured.

TOP- 1. A wool sliver that has been combed to straighten the fibers and to remove short fiber; an
intermediate stage in the production of worsted yarn. 2. A similar untwisted strand of
manufactured staple delivered by the comb or made directly from tow.

TOP COLORS- Colors used on the ground color to form a design.

TOP DYEING- 1. The process of covering with an additional dye, not necessarily of the same
color or class, to obtain the desired shade. 2. Fiber in top form is placed in cans and dyed in a
batch-dye vessel with reverse cycling capability. An expensive process that is used primarily for
fancy yarns.

TORQUE- A force or a combination of forces that produces or tends to produce a twisting or
rotating motion. In reference to yarn, torque refers to the yarn’s tendency to turn on itself, or
kink, as a result of twisting.

TORQUE YARN- . TEXTURED YARNS.

TOTAL DENIER (OF TOW)- The product of the denier per filament times the number of
filaments in a tow.

TOUGHNESS- 1. Ability of a material to endure large deformations without rupture. 2. The
actual work per unit mass required to rupture a fiber or a yarn.

TOW- A large strand of continuous manufactured fiber filaments without definite twist, collected
in loose, rope-like form, usually held together by crimp. Tow is the form that most manufactured
fiber reaches before being cut into staple. It is often processed on tow-conversion machinery into
tops, sliver, or yarn, or on tow-opening equipment to make webs for various uses.

TRANSESTERIFICATION- In the production of polyester from dimethyl terephthalate and
ethylene glycol, the process of exchanging ethylene glycol for the methyl groups to obtain bis-â-
hydroxyethyl terephthalate. The methanol generated in the reaction is removed as it is formed to
drive the reaction to completion.

TRANSFER TAIL- A long end of yarn wound at the base of a package that permits increased warping or transfer efficiency by providing an easily accessible connecting point for the succeeding package.

TRANSITION TEMPERATURE- A temperature at which some radical change, usually a
phase change, in the appearance or structure of a substance occurs. Examples of transition
temperatures are melting point, boiling point, and second-order transition temperature.

TRAPEZOID TEAR TESTER- . ELMENDORF TEAR TESTER.

TRAPPED END- An end that is unable to unwrap or unwind from the beam. Trapping of an end
may be prolonged or intermittent depending upon the cause of trapping (e.g., rolled ends at the
selvage, short ends, or mechanical difficulties).

TRAVELER- A C-shaped, metal clip that revolves around the ring on a ring spinning frame. It
guides the yarn onto the bobbin as twist is inserted into the yarn.

TRAVERSE LENGTH- The lateral distance between the points of reversal of the wind on a
yarn package.

TRAVERSE RATIO- . WIND RATIO.

TREE BARK- A term describing the rippled or wavy effect sometimes .n when a bonded fabric is stretched in the horizontal (widthwise) direction. This defect is caused by bias tensions present when two
distorted or skewed fabrics are bonded.

TRIACETATE FIBER- A manufactured fiber produced from cellulose triacetate in the forms of filament yarn, staple, and tow. Cellulose triacetate fiber differs from acetate fiber in that during its manufacture
the cellulose is completely acetylated whereas acetate, which is diacetate, is only partially acetylated. The FTC notes that a fiber may be called triacetate when not less than 92% of the hydroxyl groups are acetylated. Fabrics of triacetate have higher heat resistance than acetate fabrics and can be safely ironed at higher temperatures. Triacetate fabrics that have been properly heat-set (usually after dyeing) have improved ease-of-care characteristics because of a change in the crystalline structure of the
fiber. 

TRIACETIN- Glycerol triacetate. A type of plasticizer for acetate fibers. It is widely used to
add firmness to cigarette filter rods.

TRIAXIAL FABRICS- Completely isotropic fabrics made in a weaving process employing three yarns at 60° angles to each other. These fabrics have no stretch or distortion in any direction. With equal sizes and
number of yarns in all three directions, the fabric approaches equal strength and stiffness in all directions.

TRICOT- A generic term for the most common type of warp-knit fabric. It has fine wales on the
face and coursewise ribs on the back. It can be made in a plain jersey construction or in meshes,
stripes, and many other designs. Tricot is usually made of triacetate, acetate, polyester, nylon, or
rayon. (Also . JERSEY and KNITTING, 1.)
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TRICOT BEAM- A metal flanged beam, commonly 42 inches in width, on which yarn is wound
for use as a supply for the tricot machine.

TRICOT FABRIC YIELD- The number of square yards per pound of greige or finished tricot
fabric.

TRIMER- A polymer consisting of three monomer units. (Also . CYCLIC TRIMER.)

TRISKELION CROSS SECTION- A trilobal cross section in which the radiating arms are
curved or bent. (Also . CROSS SECTION.)

TRISTIMULUS VALUES- In shade matching during dyeing, these values represent the amount
of each of the three primary colors that, when mixed additively, will generate the desired shade.

TRUE TENSILE STRENGTH- The maximum tensile stress expressed in force per unit area of
the specimen at the time of rupture. (Also . TENSILE STRENGTH.)

TUBE- 1. A cylindrical holder or bobbin used as a core for a cylindrical yarn package. 2. A
cylindrical yarn package.

TUBING- A woven, knit, or braided fabric of cylindrical form, having a width of over 4 inches.

TUBULAR FABRIC- A fabric woven or knit in a tube form with no seams, such as seamless
pillowcases, some knit underwear fabrics, and seamless hosiery. (Also . CIRCULAR-KNIT
FABRIC.)

TUCK STITCH- A knitting stitch made when a needle receives a new yarn without losing its old
loop.

TUFT- 1. A cluster of soft yarns drawn through a fabric and projecting from the surface in the
form of cut yarns or loops. 2. The portion of pile-like material that comprises a tufted fabric or
carpet. (Also . TUFTED FABRIC and TUFTED CARPET.)

TUFTED CARPET- Carpet produced by a tufting machine instead of a loom. It is an outgrowth
of hand-tufted bedspreads. Today, broadloom tufting machines produce over 90% of all domestic
carpeting. Tufting machines are essentially multineedle sewing machines that push the pile yarns
through a primary backing fabric and hold them in place to form loops as the needles are withdrawn. The loops are then either released for loop-pile carpets or cut for cut-pile carpets. The pile yarns may be
either predyed or uncolored, in which case, the greige carpet is then piece-dyed or printed. In either case, a latex or other binding agent is applied to the backstitch to lock the tufts in place and to secure the
secondary backing fabric. Formerly, all carpets were woven, either by hand or machine. The significantly greater productivity of tufting has revolutionized the carpet industry and made soft floor coverings available to the mass market.

TUFTED FABRIC- Cotton sheeting, lightweight duck, or other fabric decorated with fluffy tufts
of multiple-ply, soft-twist cotton yarns or manufactured fiber yarns closely arranged in
continuous lines or spaced at intervals to produce the type of fabric called candlewick. The tufts
are inserted and cut by machine in previously woven fabric or are woven in by the loom and
afterwards cut to form the tufts. They have a chenille-like softness and bulk and are erroneously
called chenille. Patterns vary from simple straight lines and elaborate designs to completely
covered materials resembling long pile fabrics. The may be white, solid colored, or multicolored.
Tufted fabrics are used for bedspreads, bath mats, and robes, etc.

TULLE- A fine, very lightweight, machine-made net usually having a hexagonal mesh effect.
Tulle is used in ballet costumes and veils.

TURBIDITY- The decrease in optical transparency of a solution because of the presence of
particulate matter.

TURN- The distance parallel to the axis of a yarn or rope in which a strand makes one complete
spiral. (Also . TWIST.)

TURNED-OVER EDGE- A curled selvage.

TWEED- An irregular, soft, flexible, unfinished, shaggy wool or wool-blend fabric made with a
2/2 twill weave. Tweeds are used in all types of coat fabrics and suitings.

TWILL WEAVE- A fundamental weave characterized by diagonal lines produced by a series of
floats staggered in the warp direction. The floats are normally formed by filling (filling-faced
twill). A warp-face twill is a weave in which the warp yarns produce the diagonal effect.

TWILO PROCESS- A spinning process in which yarn is made by binding fibers with an
adhesive, then removing the adhesive after the yarn is made into fabric.

TWINE- 1. A plied yarn made form medium-twist single yarns with ply twist in the opposite
direction. 2. A single-strand yarn, usually 3 or 4 millimeters in diameter, made of hard fibers,
such as henequen, sisal, abaca, or phormium, and sufficiently stiff to perform satisfactorily on a
mechanical grain binder.

TWIST- The number of turns about its axis per unit of length of a yarn or other textile strand.
Twist is expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm), or turns per centimeter (tpcm).

TWIST, DIRECTION OF- The direction of twist in yarns and other textile strands is indicated by the capital letters S and Z. Yarn has S-twist if when it is held vertically, the spirals around its central
axis slope in the same direction as the middle portion of the letter S, and Z-twist if they slope in the same direction as the middle portion of the letter Z. When two or more yarns, either single or plied, are
twisted together, the letters S and Z are used in a similar manner to indicate the direction of the last twist inserted.

TWISTING- 1. The process of combining filaments into yarn by twisting them together or combining two or more parallel singles yarns (spun or filament) into plied yarns or cords. Cables are made
by twisting plied yarns or cords. Twisting is also employed to increase strength, smoothness, and uniformity, or to obtain novelty effects in yarn. 2. A very high level of twist is added to single or plied yarns to make crepe yarns. This operation generally is called creping or throwing. 3. The process of adding twist to a filament yarn to hold the filaments together for ease in subsequent textile processing, etc.

TWIST MULTIPLIER- The ratio of turns per inch to the square root of the yarn count.

TWIST SETTING- A process for fixing twist in yarns to deaden torque and eliminate kinking
during further processing. There are several methods that use steam to condition the packages of
yarns.

TWIT- A short section of real twist in false-twist yarn that prevents crimp development and
hence causes a pinhole effect in fabric. Also called twist bleed or tight spot.

TWO-FOR-ONE TWISTER- A twister that inserts twist at a rate of twice the spindle speed.
For example, at a spindle speed of 2,000 rpm, 4,000 turns per minute are inserted in the yarn.
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